First Step: Mise en place and activating the yeast. Warm the whole milk to about 110°F. It should feel warm and cozy but not hot to the touch. In a small bowl, stir the warmed milk with 1 teaspoon granulated sugar and 2 and 1/4 teaspoons yeast. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes until bubbly and foamy; this is the yeast waking up and a quick signal the yeast is active.

Second Step: Mixing the enriched dough. In a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine 3 and 1/2 cups (438g) all-purpose or bread flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 and 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, and 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice. Whisk briefly to distribute the spices. Add 1/2 cup (100g) packed light or dark brown sugar and mix. Pour in the foamy yeast-milk, then add 5 tablespoons (71g) unsalted butter cut into pieces, 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract, and 2 large room-temperature eggs. Mix on low until the dough comes together, then increase to medium-low and knead for 6 to 8 minutes by mixer, or 8 to 10 minutes by hand on a lightly floured surface. The dough should be smooth and slightly tacky but not sticky. If too sticky, add up to 2 tablespoons extra flour; if too dry, add a teaspoon of warm milk at a time.

Third Step: Add fruit and first rise. Gently knead in 1 cup (140g) raisins or currants until evenly distributed. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a clean towel, and let rise in a warm draft-free spot until doubled, about 1 to 1 and 1/2 hours depending on room temperature. The dough should feel airy and spring back slowly when pressed.

Fourth Step: Shaping the buns. Punch down the risen dough gently to release large air pockets. Turn it onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 12 to 16 equal pieces depending on the size you want. For 12 buns, weigh about 85-90g per piece; for 16, aim for 65-70g. Shape each piece into a smooth ball by pulling the dough under itself and pinching the seam closed at the bottom. Place the balls on a parchment-lined baking sheet or in a greased 9×13-inch pan with a little space between each for a softer sided bun; for a classic arrangement, place in a grid so they just touch after rising. Cover loosely and allow the shaped buns to rise for the second proof until nearly doubled and springy to the touch, about 45 to 60 minutes.

Fifth Step: Making and applying the flour crosses. Make the cross paste by mixing 1/2 cup (63g) all-purpose or bread flour with 6 to 8 tablespoons (90-120ml) water to form a thick piping-consistency paste. Transfer the paste to a piping bag fitted with a small round tip or a zip-top bag with the corner snipped. Once the buns have risen and just before baking, pipe a neat cross on each bun. If you prefer, you can bake plain and pipe an icing cross after baking for a sweeter look.

Sixth Step: Baking. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Bake the buns for 20 to 25 minutes until golden and an internal temperature of about 190°F if you use an instant-read thermometer. Rotate the pan halfway through baking for even browning.

Final Step: Glazing and orange icing. For the classic glossy finish, whisk 1 cup (120g) confectioners’ sugar with 3 tablespoons (45ml) fresh or bottled orange juice until smooth. If you want plain icing, use 3 tablespoons milk with 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract instead. Drizzle or spread the icing over warm buns for a shiny, slightly set glaze.