1-First Step: Gather tools and preheat Preheat the oven to 400°F (204°C). Choose your baking surface: line a baking sheet with parchment or a silicone mat, use a seasoned 10-12 inch cast iron skillet, a greased 9-10 inch cake pan or pie dish, or a greased and lined 5-quart or larger Dutch oven (if using a Dutch oven, bake with the lid off). Having the right pan helps the loaf develop a crisp crust and even bake.

2-Second Step: Mix wet ingredients In a small bowl whisk together 1 and 3/4 cups buttermilk and 1 large egg (if using). Keep the buttermilk cold. If you do not have buttermilk, make a quick substitute by stirring 1 tablespoon lemon juice or white vinegar into enough cold milk to total 1 and 3/4 cups, and let sit for 5 minutes.

3-Third Step: Combine dry ingredients In a large bowl combine 4 and 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, 3 tablespoons granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon baking soda, and 1 teaspoon salt. Whisk briefly to distribute the leavening and salt evenly throughout the flour.

4-Fourth Step: Cut in cold butter Add 5 tablespoons of unsalted butter, cold and cubed, to the flour mixture. Using a pastry cutter, two knives, or your fingertips, cut the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles pea-sized crumbs. Cold butter is key to flakiness; if the butter softens, chill the bowl briefly before continuing.

5-Fifth Step: Add raisins if using If you want raisins, stir in 1 cup optional raisins. For extra depth, soak them in a splash of whiskey, warm tea, or warm water for 10 minutes, then drain before folding into the dough. For a savory loaf, skip the raisins entirely.

6-Sixth Step: Combine wet and dry Pour the buttermilk and egg mixture into the bowl with the dry ingredients. Using a wooden spoon or sturdy spatula, gently fold until the dough comes together and is stiff but still slightly crumbly. The goal is a dough that is moistened throughout without becoming sticky or overworked. If the dough is sticky, sprinkle a little extra flour onto your work surface and hands.

7-Seventh Step: Shape the loaf Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Form it into a rough ball and knead very lightly just until all dry flour is moistened and the dough holds together. Avoid heavy kneading; overworking will create a tough loaf. Shape into a round loaf about 8-9 inches wide and place it in your prepared pan or skillet.

8-Eighth Step: Score the top Using a very sharp knife, score an X about 1/2 inch deep on top of the dough. This helps heat reach the center so the loaf bakes evenly. A confident, single cut works best; ragged or repeated sawing will deflate the dough.

9-Ninth Step: Bake to doneness Bake at 400°F (204°C) for 45-55 minutes until the crust turns a deep golden brown and the center registers 195°F (90°C) on an instant-read thermometer. If the crust browns too fast, tent it lightly with foil. Smaller loaves will bake faster, so check after 25-30 minutes if you divided the dough.

10-Final Step: Rest and serve Remove the loaf from the oven and let it cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to finish cooling. Serve warm, at room temperature, or sliced and toasted with butter, jam, or alongside soups and stews. Leftovers keep wrapped in foil at room temperature for up to 2 days or refrigerated for up to 1 week.