Where To Eat In Paris: A Meal by Meal Guide to Pastry Shops, Cafes, and Bistros

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Where To Eat In Paris!

Paris turns every meal into an event, and if you plan your days around food, this guide will save you a lot of guessing.

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It comes from a recent trip where several meals climbed straight to the top of a personal best thing I ever ate list. That is rare. Most trips give you one unforgettable dish. This one gave a whole handful.

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Everything below is organized the way the days were: dessert first, because it is the most fun, then breakfast, lunch, and dinner. You will find neighborhoods, honest notes about lines and cash, and the dishes worth ordering when you get there.

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One tip before you start. Paris rewards wanderers. If you find yourself near the Eiffel Tower and craving something off the tourist path, duck into a quiet corner bistro, order the lamb, and thank me later. If you want a wider map for the days in between, this where to eat in Paris map is a handy companion.

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Dessert Comes First

Starting with sweets is a deliberate choice. Dessert shops in Paris are small, quick stops you can fold between museums and walks, and they set the tone for the whole trip. Here is where to go.

Amorino

Amorino is the shop with the famous rose petal ice cream, where the gelato is pressed into petal shapes on the cone so it looks like a flower. The longtime favorites here are hazelnut, Nutella, and Speculoos, which tastes a lot like Biscoff.

If you have ever had rose petal ice cream in Budapest, this will feel familiar in the best possible way.

François Pralus

François Pralus sits on Rue Cler, one of the best shopping streets in the city and only a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower. This is where you find La Praluline.

Picture a sweet, nutty brioche with the buttery, nutty flavor of almonds and hazelnuts, but without any hard crunch. It was called one of the best things eaten all week, so put it near the top of your list.

Maison Georges Larnicol

On Boulevard Saint Germain you will find Maison Georges Larnicol, and this is a good place to meet kouign aman. Kouign aman is one of the great French pastries: a buttery, flaky croissant style pastry with sugar sprinkled between the layers.

As it bakes, the sugar caramelizes, so the inside turns soft and gooey like caramel while the outside stays sweet, crackly, and flaky. Larnicol makes mini versions in fun flavors, which is perfect if you want to taste several without committing to one big pastry.

Aux Merveilleux de Fred

Aux Merveilleux de Fred was a new discovery on this trip. In the window sat a cramique, a warm, soft, fluffy bread with caramelized sugar oozing out. Even after a full day of pastry hopping it was devoured on the spot. If you love carbs, this one is for you.

Stohrer

Stohrer is the oldest pastry shop in Paris, which makes it worth a visit for the history alone. The pastries are traditional and fun, and yes, kouign aman is available here too. It pairs well with a walk down Rue Montorgueil, another favorite shopping street.

Berko

Berko serves a Lemon Meringue Cheesecake that was described as life changing and to die for. That is high praise from someone who is not a huge fan of cheesecake, meringue, or marshmallow fluff. This dessert was unlike any other, and it is worth a chance even if you usually skip cheesecake.

Berthillon

Berthillon is without a doubt the most famous ice cream shop in Paris. The ice cream is delicious, and there is usually a line out the door that wraps around the street, even in cold weather. Here is the trick.

Berthillon sits on Île Saint Louis, and other shops on the island sell the same Berthillon ice cream, with the same flavors and the same price, and no wait. Bring cash, because none of these shops take credit cards.

Ladurée

Ladurée is a gorgeous pastry shop known around the world for legendary macarons. Favorite flavors include vanilla, chocolate, caramel, and strawberry candy, and they sell kouign aman as well. There are several locations around Paris, but at the Champs Élysées branch, go early.

There can be an hour long line just to reach the counter. The Ladurée at Charles de Gaulle Airport carries the same macaron flavors, which is a nice last stop before a flight. Seasonal flavors tried on this trip were vanilla pecan and chestnut.

If you want to try making macarons at home before you go, this homemade strawberry macarons recipe is a fun place to start.

Pierre Hermé

Pierre Hermé was visited at the Galeries Lafayette Gourmet Food Hall, and it is another favorite macaron shop. The debate over Ladurée versus Pierre Hermé is really apples to oranges.

Ladurée leans toward basic everyday flavors such as vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, and caramel, while Pierre Hermé goes gourmet and adventurous with rose, jasmine, olive oil, and green tea. Both are excellent, and the choice comes down to your flavor mood.

The food hall itself is a must for foodies, and the Galeries Lafayette across the street is a Parisian landmark worth seeing, especially the ceiling.

Acide Macaron

Acide Macaron is a new macaron shop tried on this trip, and it is a different experience. This is a small boutique, not big and commercialized like Ladurée and Pierre Hermé.

Each macaron is made by hand rather than in thousands per day for multiple locations, and there is a wide range of brightly colored macarons in both classic and innovative flavors.

Gérard Mulot

Gérard Mulot is one of the favorite bakeries in Paris. Here is the reassuring part. Croissants are amazing everywhere in Paris, unlike anything back home, so there is no need to stress about finding the best one. Still, Gérard Mulot is worth a drop in for a croissant.

Breakfast

Breakfast in Paris can be as simple as a croissant and coffee, but a few spots deserve a proper sit down.

Le Saint Régis

Le Saint Régis is a charming cafe near the apartment on Île Saint Louis, right across from Berthillon. It does a fabulous brunch starting at 10 am on Sundays, and the best part is that it has French toast.

Les Deux Magots

Les Deux Magots is a classic Parisian cafe, the kind of place where you order an omelet, coffee, hot chocolate, and croissants, then settle in for people watching. It is a gentle introduction to the whole cafe culture if this is your first trip.

Marcel

Marcel was one of the favorite breakfast spots of the trip. The French toast there was amazing, and if you are choosing between Saint Régis and Marcel, Marcel was the better of the two. Marcel also had cinnamon buns.

If you like the idea of buttery pastries with a savory twist, this shrimp stuffed croissants recipe is a fun one to try at home between trips.

Lunch

Bistrot Belhara

Bistrot Belhara is near the Eiffel Tower and is recommended when you want an amazing meal while avoiding the more touristy spots. It is quiet, off the beaten path, and filled with locals.

The menu is classic French food with daily specials, the staff is friendly and extremely knowledgeable, and if you are unsure what to order, let them guide you.

La Briciola

La Briciola is a local pizza place, not touristy at all. After eight days in Paris, sometimes a break from French food is needed. No one spoke English there, but it was easy enough to order burrata and a caprese pizza. The burrata was some of the best ever, and the caprese pizza with mozzarella di bufala was divine.

Dinner

Astier

Astier serves classic French food off the beaten path with delightful staff. The lamb chops were amazing, even though lamb is not usually a favorite, and they would return just to order them again. For a special occasion, call ahead and order the famous soufflé.

They only make two per night, which makes Astier the place to go for soufflé in Paris.

Le Bosquet

Le Bosquet is another gem near the Eiffel Tower. It was happened upon last year and turned out to be one of the favorite meals of that trip, so friends were taken back this year. The ravioli gratin is to die for: gooey, cheesy, melty, and perfect.

La Bauhinia at Shangri La Hotel Paris

La Bauhinia at the Shangri La Hotel Paris was one of the favorite dining experiences of the trip. The Shangri La is the former home of Napoleon Bonaparte’s grandnephew, Prince Roland Bonaparte, and original features remain, including gold crowns in the stair railing and engraved Bs in the fireplaces.

Arrive early to look around. The food was amazing, especially the Spicy Corn Soup, which comes with popcorn in it and a side of crispy tofu rolls. Even someone who did not consider themselves a fan of tofu was made a believer by those rolls. It is the perfect spot for a special night out.

Restaurant Le Duc

Restaurant Le Duc might have been the favorite meal of the entire trip. Everything was so amazing that it was hard to stop eating, and even the butter comes out with the restaurant name engraved on it.

Le Duc is a seafood only restaurant with classic French preparation, so if seafood is not appealing, it may not be the right place unless you are going just for dessert.

The sole meunière was tender, mild white fish in a decadently dreamy buttery sauce. A friend ordered the seabass with ginger sauce, described as life changing, with very mild but very good ginger. The plan is to return and order that seabass with ginger.

After the meal everyone was stuffed and planned to skip dessert until the dessert cart arrived. The waiter offered mille feuille to share, and although it was tiny, it came highly recommended.

Splitting it four ways would be about one bite each, so they gave in, and it was so worth it.

It was one of the best things of the week and one of the best things ever, with a perfectly flaky crust and divine layers of vanilla custard. It reminded them of Ruszwurm Cream Cake in Budapest.

Trust the recommendation, go to Le Duc, and order the seabass with ginger and the mille feuille. Reservations well in advance are highly recommended and totally worth it.

Private Dinner with Chef Brian DeFehr

A typical Parisian dinner at a restaurant can easily last two to three hours, which takes some getting used to for Americans.

If you are not feeling up to going out and you have rented an apartment, you can hire a private chef to prepare a fabulous meal created just for you at home. A private dinner with Chef Brian DeFehr was a highlight of the trip.

Everything from the lamb to the chocolate soufflé was perfectly prepared, making for a wonderful, relaxing meal at home.

Dessance

Dessance is a unique concept restaurant with a prix fixe menu that highlights the natural sweetness of fruits and vegetables. The food and the experience are creative, gorgeous, unique, and unforgettable.

Even though the menu is set, they are happy to work around food allergies and preferences. Tell them what you like and do not like, and they will create a meal just for you. It is a must try for foodies.

Most tables have a view of the kitchen, so diners can watch each masterpiece as it is created. Unique meringues were being created all night, and it was exciting when they arrived at the table.

A Foodie Activity Worth Booking

Succulent Paris Walking Tour

The Succulent Paris Walking Tour was one of the favorite foodie activities of the trip. The tour introduced Acide Macarons and led the group through the 17th Arrondissement, sampling pastries, chocolates, caramels, spices, honey, and olive oils.

Some of the best balsamic vinegar ever tasted was bought here and brought home as a souvenir. It is recommended for foodies who love walking tours.

If cocktails are more your speed, a cocktail guide from Girls Guide to Paris covers 100 French bars, which is a fun way to plan an evening after dinner. For a broader shortlist beyond this guide, this Paris dining guide of local favorites is a useful second opinion.

Practical Notes Before You Go

  • Bring cash for the Île Saint Louis ice cream shops, since they do not take credit cards.
  • Go early to Ladurée on the Champs Élysées if you want to avoid the hour long line.
  • Book Le Duc and Astier well in advance, and call ahead at Astier if you want the soufflé.
  • Pace yourself. Pastry hopping is real, and a cramique can appear right when you think you are full.

Paris rewards a loose plan and a willingness to follow a smell down a side street. Start with dessert, work your way through the rest, and you will come home with your own best thing I ever ate list.

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FAQs

Where should I eat in Paris for lunch, and how can I save money on it?

Lunch is the best value meal in Paris. Look for a handwritten chalkboard or a menu listing formule or menu du jour, a fixed price two or three course meal that costs far less than the same dishes at dinner. Lunch service usually runs from noon to about 2 pm, and many kitchens close completely between lunch and dinner. Near the Eiffel Tower, Bistrot Belhara serves classic French cooking with daily specials in a quiet, local setting.

Do I need reservations for Paris restaurants?

Yes for popular places, especially seafood houses, well known bistros, and anything you want on a weekend evening. Book several weeks ahead when you can, and call during off hours for small family run rooms that do not use booking platforms. Same day walk ins succeed most often right at opening or after 9 pm. Le Duc, a seafood only restaurant, is worth reserving well in advance.

What time do Paris restaurants open for dinner, and how long does a meal take?

Most dinner kitchens open around 7 pm and keep serving until 10 or 11 pm, and many close entirely between lunch and dinner, so arriving mid afternoon usually means a bakery, market stall, or cafe with a limited all day menu. A two hour dinner is normal rather than slow service. Servers bring the check only when you ask for l'addition, and service is included in the posted price, so tipping is not required.

Which Paris neighborhoods and food streets are best for a food focused day?

Cluster your meals by arrondissement to avoid losing hours to transit. Market streets such as Rue Cler, Rue Montorgueil, Rue des Martyrs, and Rue Mouffetard pack bakeries, cheese shops, produce stands, and casual lunch counters into a few walkable blocks. Rue Cler sits a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower and has Francois Pralus for the praluline brioche. On the Ile Saint-Louis, Berthillon is the most famous ice cream shop, and the nearby shops selling the same scoops are cash only.

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